I flew up to Alaska to celebrate my brother's birthday with him. Considering the bad feelings Canadians have towards us Americans these days, if adverse conditions caused excessive fuel consumption, I didn't want to risk having to make a fuel stop there and deal with whatever hassle the Canuks might feel like subjecting a Yankee imperialist sky pirate to. So I flew to Seattle and gassed up there, then flew on to Juneau, cutting almost 200 miles off the over-Canada distance. I refueled and had lunch at Juneau, then continued on to Anchorage, making it a pretty long day, almost 10 hours in the air and 480 gallons of fuel burned. The next morning I flew on to Fairbanks where I landed to top off my fuel and have breakfast, then flew on to Bettles, some ways north of the Arctic Circle, and landed on the 5,200-foot gravel runway there, about three hours in the air total time. I was tireder the second day than the first. It does catch up with you. The temperature was not a lot different from what it was in Montana, low 20s at night, mid 40s during the day, but the air smelled different, fresher somehow. Maybe it was the breeze blowing off the river.
When I was gassing up -- not that I really needed to, but I go by the old adage that the only time you have too much fuel is when you are on fire, plus full tanks preclude condensation -- a couple of guys came by to look over my plane and remarked how well I had managed to put it down on a gravel runway. I didn't bother to tell them that our ranch runway was nowhere near as nice as this one, certainly not as wide, and also gravel.
Bettles was founded during the boom years of the North Slope oil bonanza and has been in decline ever since, the only thing going is tourism, such as it is. The place has only a few dozen permanent residents now. The airfield is bigger than the town. I kid you not.
My brother met me, coming in from his place in a Cessna T206H float plane and off we went, flying through some spectacular scenery. The land was still just as God made it. It was easy to imagine that this was the world before Adam, and that there were no people anywhere. Gates of the Arctic was definitely a good name for the region.
For his present I gave my brother a Ruger Hawkeye Alaskan .375 and a stack of ammunition. Since he's had some brown bear trouble I thought it might prove useful. Carrying the rifle on my plane was another reason for not wanting to have to land in Canada. I did not want to hear that dreaded phrase, "Do you have any firearms on board?" At least not since that one time I replied, "Well, what do you need?" Definitely the wrong answer. Those Canadians just can't take a joke.
We had a pleasant little party and spent the long evening discussing many things. It had been a long time since we had been able to just talk and talk like this. He has always been my favorite brother, very much like me in thinking in many ways. We both have an almost mystical, panentheistic view of life and nature and God in a way I'm not about to try to explain. I've always envied and admired his choice of professions that has allowed him to be where he wants to be and do what he wants to do.
His wife was five months into her pregnancy and was definitely glowing. I brought her some comfy slides with arch support. Those slippers helped me with my last pregnancy and I knew she would get good use out of them. I wanted her to rest while I fixed supper but she insisted I sit down while she whipped up the grub, and mighty good vittles they were, too. I asked how she was doing, being out here so far from any other people, and she said she managed. Her husband was all the company she needed. My brother said that soon he would move her down to Fairbanks for the birth where relatives would stay with her, but he had to remain in the north for his work. She said she would be just fine staying with him. He smiled but shook his head. He'd take her south.
My other brother is very much like my father in many ways, and followed him into a career in naval aviation. He's of a more practical, down-to-earth mindset. I guess I am kind of in between the two of them. I am a romantic in the Wordsworthian sense, but also have the commonsense viewpoint of the female who has to change diapers and treat boo-boos.
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Picking up some ice. |
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Windshield icing up. |
Back at Bettles, as I was preparing to leave a couple of men approached me and asked where I was flying to. When I said Fairbanks and points south, they asked if they could hitch a ride with me. I hesitated -- they could hijack me easily -- and they could read my thoughts or at least sense my uneasiness so they suggested I check them out at the ranger station, which we all went to together. At the station, a woman asked if I had room for one more and when I said I did word got out and I ended up with seven passengers,four men, a woman and her child and another woman, all of whom traveled for free. That was the first time I ever picked up hitch-hikers in an airplane. I wonder how often that happens in remote, lightly populated places accessible only by plane. I dropped off the four men at Fairbanks and the two women and the child flew with me to Anchorage where I dropped off the woman and child and the other woman continued on with me to Juneau.
She rode with me in the cockpit and I was pleased for the company. The weather was a little better over the central coast this time, so I could relax a bit and enjoy her conversation.
She said she had come to Alaska to work as a stripper, which paid very well in the woman-starved north, and had also gotten into prostitution, which paid even better, but quit that as it was too dangerous, many of the men in the state being very violent, even murderous. I was only mildly surprised to learn that she had been married and her husband was her pimp. But I was shocked when she said that one time a john began beating her up and her husband had burst into the room to stop him and they had gotten into a fight and her husband was killed. She ran from the room and the john chased her, but she got away. She called the police. They booked her for prostitution but didn't bother to hunt down the john. He was just some guy. They noted down his description and put the word out, but that's about all they could do.She was going down to Juneau to work the tourist trade, she said. That didn't sound like she had given up prostitution, but I didn't pursue it. I also wondered what she was doing in Bettles but I didn't ask.
We did discuss male sexual proclivities, of which she was a storehouse of information, some of it hilarious, a lot more alarming. She warned me never to get involved with an Alaska native man. They raped their own daughters routinely, beat their wives and often killed them. They treated their dogs better than any woman. I said that reminded me of the men in Afghanistan, except the hajis preferred boys to girls and treated their goats better than their women. Had sex more often with them, too. She asked if that was really true and I assured it was indeed very true.
When we hit turbulence she was blasé about it and continued talking, clearly an experienced bush plane passenger. Looking me over appraisingly, she said if I ever wanted a job stripping I could make bank, especially as a blonde with milk monsters.
She said when she first got to Alaska she was dead broke. She had hitch-hiked up the Alcan, riding mostly with truckers, paying them with blowjobs. She was stranded in Tok for a week before she got a ride, this time with a family in their RV. When they camped for the night, while the wife was preparing dinner she sucked off the husband.
They dropped her off in Fairbanks. She had not even enough money to buy a meal, but she found a strip joint, got hired right away and made enough money that night to get a motel room, buy dinner and breakfast the next morning and go shopping for some clothes. By the end of the week she had enough money to buy a second hand car and the week after rent an apartment. I gathered she lived in Anchorage now, where she owned a house and had a boyfriend who worked construction and on fishing boats. I asked if she still stripped and she said yes. I asked if she provided any special services to her customers and she said now mostly hand jobs and dry humps.
When we got to Juneau she invited me to spend the evening hanging out with her. She knew some guys who liked my type and I was a little tempted. It would be interesting to see what her world was like. But I decided that would not be wise. I explained to her that I needed to get home to my kids and my husband and she said that sounded boring so why not have a girls' weekend with her before going back to the dull routine? She could introduce me to a lot of fun guys who were free with their money. She was pretty insistent about it, so I finally said I was on a schedule and I had to stick to it or I would get in trouble. I needed to get going.
I had actually planned to stay over in Juneau, but I didn't want to chance running into her or her pals if I went out to look over the town and have dinner. As I thought about it, it seemed curious that after telling me how dangerous Alaskan men could be she wanted me to come with her to meet several. What was up with that? It also struck me as odd that she never once showed any interest in what I was doing in Alaska, why I had come to Bettles, how I came to be piloting a fairly large airplane. Her whole conversation was about herself and the money to be made off men, almost as if she were trying to sell me.
Of course I could be just letting my imagination run away with me. She might have even been intimidated, if that's the right word, by me, someone with a professional-grade skill and occupation, as she may have assumed, while she was...well, what she was and she wanted to show to me that she had a good job, too, one that made her a lot of money. I don't know. Maybe she just wanted a friend. Maybe I missed a fun evening. And maybe I avoided being sex trafficked. Who knows?
Anyway, so, tired as I was after busting through the leg from ANC to JNU, I refueled and took off for Seattle. I put on my oxygen mask and snorted the pure stuff whenever I felt my eyes grow heavy. I put the plane on autopilot as I usually did not do, as I've mentioned before, in case I dozed off --which I didn't do. With night, there was nothing but the glow of the instruments, the drone of the engines, some radio chatter, and the stars racing between clouds. I kept my scan going and kept up my dead reckoning plot to match with my GPS track. My mind drifted free, the time passed.
When I finally chirped the tires at BFI I had been in the air for some 14 hours total that day. I felt like I had gone from God's own heimat to an encounter with one of the denizens of a Henry Miller novel to normal earth. I thought about gassing up and getting on home but I knew I was just too tired to even try. It completely exhausted me just to handle the details of getting my plane serviced and find accommodations.
When I got to the hotel, I was so tired that I fell asleep flopped across the bed fully clothed and slept until dawn, got up, took a shower and went back to bed. I woke up a couple of hours later and went out to the airport. I hadn't eaten dinner so I was ready for breakfast but I couldn't find anything open. At my plane, I got out my stash of emergency MREs, selected cheese tortellini with assorted crap, wolfed it down and was good to go. I leaped into the sky and pointed old Betsy's nose into the eastern sun. About two and a half hours later I touched down on home ground. As I sat in the cockpit after pulling the throttles to idle cut-off I nodded off and didn't wake up until Jeff, a concerned look on his face, touched my shoulder.